Amuse Bouche
Defn: to tickle your palate, whet your appetite, make your mouth happy
Amuse Bouche is where we share with you the things that make our mouths happy. From recipes to wine reviews, from producer profiles to our culinary journeys - this is sightseeing for your tastebuds.
There are so many amazing food and wine events across this province. We recommend visiting Wine & Dine BC News - an excellent resource for keeping track of these events so you can plan your calendar and don't miss out. And Cityfood Magazine is a terrific site for keeping track of Vancouver's food & beverage related press releases, restaurant news, promotions and more.
Visit often - we'll be tasting, travelling and posting for you.
Cheers,
Treve Ring
Amuse Bouche Editor
Winespeak: Rocky Creek Winery Pinot Gris 2009
Who – Rocky Creek Winery
What – Pinot Gris 2009
Where – Cowichan Bay, Vancouver Island
Why – It’s pretty easy to pick this Gris out of a lineup – its pinky salmon hue makes it stand out. And really, why blend in when you’re this tasty? The blush is from skin contact with the pink-skinned Pinot Gris grape, also upping the mouthfeel of this smooth wine. Aromas of citrus and pear greet, and lead to a palate of ripe pear, apple, lemon and river minerality. This unoaked white has a lovely dry pear-peel finish – crisp and bright – and sings of the Islands. This ain’t no Okanagan Gris – and that’s just how it should be.
When – Partner with prawns, salmon or spice-kissed foods.
How (much) – $18.00
Winespeak of the Week – Like many local winemakers, owner/operators Linda and Mark Holford have a unique story. Both worked in the oil industry, but made wine on the side along the way – even in their 400 sq ft apartment. Mark is 3rd generation winemaker so there’s certainly some red wine colouring his blood. They began Rocky Creek winery in Ladysmith, out of the basement of their home. Their Basement Gravity Fed Winery was suitable for a while, but after the third harvest (and tripling their production from the vineyard), they decided to purchase a 7 acre property in Cowichan Bay and plant their second vineyard. In addition to Pinot Gris, they plant other Island-friendly varietals: Ortega, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Agria, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, and Valentin Blattner hybrids.
Winespeak: Poplar Grove Cabernet Franc 2006
Who – Poplar Grove Winery
What – Cabernet Franc 2006
Where – Naramata, Okanagan Valley
Why – This has always been a pleaser – and the 2006 vintage is the most impressive yet. I love the aroma of this wine. Huge warming wafts of spice, cedar, plum and cassis are carried through to the palate, with flavours of dark cherry, smoked plum, cocoa and savory earth. This is at the luxuriant end of the Cab Franc spectrum – and one that will continue to evolve over time. I’m looking forward to revisiting this one in a few years.
When – With roasted steak or lamb – try with a cocoa or herbed pepper rub for extra oomph.
How (much) – $35.00
Winespeak of the Week – Poplar Grove isn’t just known in the wine world – cheese lovers and chefs line up for their handmade artisan cheeses. When I visited the tasting room last a woman was nearly in tears because the intense Tiger Blue was sold out. Now that is love.
Winespeak: Silverside Farm & Winery Raspberry Wine
Who – Silverside Farm & Winery
What – Raspberry Wine
Where – Cobble Hill, Vancouver Island
Why – Really – fruit wines have such a bad rep. Hazy headache memories of sugary sweet syrups come flooding back to most when the topic of fruit wine comes up. Here’s an update – not all fruit wines are sweet, and not all fruit wines are syrupy. Some are vinified dry, and meant to be enjoyed with your savoury entrée. Here’s an offdry wine that is better suited to pork dinner than cheesecake. An amazingly fresh, vibrant aroma of summer’s juiciest raspberries leaps out of the glass, with more berry flavours, herbs and soft spice on the palate and a drying jammy finish. Nice acidity and heft – this clocks in at 15.5% alcohol!
When – Try with pork tenderloin dressed with cherries – or with dark chocolate (Organic Fair Chocolates is located nearby!).
How (much) – $20.00 for 750 ml
Winespeak of the Week – Situated at the south end of the Cowichan Valley in Cobble Hill, Silverside Farm has evolved over the decades from berries into wine. In addition to wines (they also make a selection of fortified wines), fresh berries and produce, new owners Lyn Jakimchuk and wine maker, Don Bull also offer jams, jellies, and fruit vinegars made right on the farm. Certainly a lovely addition to a Cowichan Valley wine tour this summer.
Bloom!
This past week Bloom burst into both the Victoria and Vancouver markets. Organized by the BC Wine Institute, this annual travelling tasting brings VQA winemakers to trade and media. The spring releases were showcased this week – with diversity from all corners of the province, across numerous varietals and highlighting a spectrum of stypes . I visited the Victoria Bloom, while Sheila Whittaker (Ruby Suitcase) popped into Bloom Vancouver and shared her thoughts with us below. I was quite impressed by the vast majority of wines this spring – warmly welcoming new versions of old favourites (Tantalus) while relishing the introduction to newer wineries (Clos du Soleil).
Though we both gave it our all to try as many wines as we could, it was just impossible to taste and chat with everyone – I was especially sorry to see I missed the Sumac Ridge table and their sparklers – ARG – next time! Here are a few of our faves:
Treve
See Ya Later Ranch Brut NV. There’s a reason we pour this one all the time at EBC dinners. Fresh, crisp and refreshing – a wonderful match to foods from all families.
Black Hills Alibi 2009. Brilliant and balanced Sauv Blanc/Semillon that has seen time in both stainless and French oak – each treatment blending seamlessly to create an impressive and weighty Bx blend.
Clos du Soleil White 2007. Another Bx blend – this time 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillon. Nutty and spicy, with citrus, gooseberry and a great river of minerality spiking through, fresh acid and a beautiful balance.
Tantalus Riesling 2009. Wow – this wine gets better every vintage. I love the kiss of sweetness, the waft of limey petrol and the bright, strict, balanced acid.
La Stella Leggerio 2009. My favourite wine of the tasting? Got to be this unoaked Chardy from La Stella. Amazing freshness, river minerality, crisp lemon and cream. Stunning.
Tantalus Rose 2009. The last time we saw a rose from this winery was 2006. Why now? Listen to the grapes – they will let you know. 70% Pinot Noir is complmented by Pinot Meunier. Bone dry, austere and serious. Seriously good.
Dirty Laundry Hush 2009. Pretty much the opposite end of the spectrum from the Tantalus Rose – but every bit as yum. Off dry, with strawberry, rhubarb and pear and a beautiful citrus kissed finish. Tastes like more.
Road 13 Rockpile 2008. The move away from varietals towards blends is a risk that has paid off. Layered flavours that keep changing in the class, on your palate and through the lengthy finish make this a new hot pick.
Hester Creek Reserve Cabernet Franc 2005. I love me a good Cab Franc. And this is one of them. Cedar, sage, bramble, raspberry, savoury goodness. Thank you!
Clos du Soleil Red 2007. This meritage blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc is polished, layered and lengthy. A beautiful dusty gravel nose is surrounded with warm jammy raspberry, cherry, cedar and herbs.
Sheila
Twisted Tree Viognier/Roussanne 2008 from Osoyoos. Great quality from this aromatic and vibrant wine. Another excellent choice for a special meal — guests bringing this to Chateau Whittaker will be invited back.
Ex Nihilo Riesling 2008 from Okanagan Falls. An intense wine bursting with citrus and bright acidity. A mouth-watering number sure to refresh!
Poplar Grove Chardonnay 2008 from Naramata. This is one of those chards that hits the balance between being crisp with green apple, mineral and citrus, yet still offering some creamy texture and only a hint of toastiness.
Church & State Wines Cabernet Blanc 2009 had bright fruit, was slightly (sweet but not overly so) and would rock a patio.
Le Vieux Pin Vaïla Pinot Noir Rosé 2008 from Oliver. This is the wine snob’s answer to those who think pink wine is a sweet girlie drink. Vaïla proves them wrong with its elegant, distinctly French-style.
Stag’s Hollow Syrah Rose had a sweet smell, but was dry on the palate with a round mouthfeel.
Stag’s Hollow Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. Yes! An affordable (under $30) red from BC that is smooth, aromatic, and easy-to-drink — while remaining interesting. By comparison, the Heritage Block 1 2006 (Cab/Merlot blend) was earthier, had more oak influence, more complexity, heavier body and grippier tannins.
Painted Rock Red Icon 2007. A huge Bordeaux-blend that, even after three years, is still tightly wound with lots of tannin and acidity. It will age for many years — and should to be properly enjoyed. If you have the means, it will be the reward.
Poplar Grove Legacy 2006. If you were to drink this now, you should open it at breakfast to enjoy it at dinner. It is powerful, complex and worthy of a cozy spot in your cellar.
Dunham & Froese Amicitia 2008. A Merlot/Cab Sauv/Syrah/Cab Franc/Malbec/Petit Verdot blend — totally different from the last vintage, which was driven by Cab Franc. It had a lot to it and is definitely a wine for the cellar. Big, bold and needs time to settle down before it peaks.
Black Hills Nota Bene 2008. There’s a reason this has become BC’s cult wine. It’s full with black current, plum, blackberry, oak, earth, good acidity and smooth tannins. It’s delicious and will be for years to come. The Carmenere was also on offer and was a hefty, meaty, dark, tooth-blackening delight.
Beerspeak: Spinnakers Blue Bridge Double IPA
Who – Spinnakers
What – Blue Bridge Double IPA
Where – Victoria, Vancouver Island
Why – As I noted a few days ago, we are in the midst of the first ever Vancouver Craft Beer Week. 25 local craft breweries – including Spinnakers – will be showcasing their tasty wares at over 20 venues this week. And if you’re lucky, you’ll run into Spinnakers – a true innovator and exemplary ambassador for craft breweries. A North American west coast invention, this trending double IPA is basically your familiar India Pale Ale x 10. Expect a more robust, gutsier version of IPA – upped ante on hops, malts, and alcohol. Brewmaster Rob Monk has done just that with BB – aromatic citrus notes leap out of the glass, with complex and floral hops, bready and orange-caramel malt flavours and a silky smooth, medium body. Finishes a little bitter – but in a good way. Not as hoppy as other double IPA’s I’ve had – nice balance here to integrate the higher alcohol (around 8%)
When – Bring on the burgers – beef, pork or ahi tuna. Hand cut fries, sea salt, aioli. Don’t even need the Canucks.
Beerspeak of the Week – Spinnakers Brewpub is Canada’s oldest brewpub, celebrating a quarter century of bringing people together. That was the impetus behind Blue Bridge Ale. If you’re familiar with Victoria, you’ll know how iconic the Big Blue Bridge is – linking downtown with Vic West and Esquimalt. Love it or hate it, everyone knows the Blue Bridge. Spinnakers founder and owner Paul Hadfield puts it like this:
“Bridges link people – they bring them together and that’s exactly what the Johnson St. or ‘Blue Bridge’ does here in Victoria, and that’s what we’ve always wanted to do – bring people together to enjoy beers that weren’t readily available in our marketplace.”
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