A LACK OF CREATIVITY?
Photo borrowed from the City Food website
On our Granville Island Market tour this past weekend, I had the pleasure of taking 5 journalists from the
My general response to this question is that chefs in BC like to take the best of the world (in terms of techniques and influences – French techniques coupled with Asian influences for example) and make it our own by using local, sustainable products (one of the best examples of this being Oyama Sausage). However as we explored this we discussed in more detail how Vancouver seems to be seeing a lack of creativity from many of the chefs, especially the new comers, who seem to think that as long as you use the worlds, local and sustainable in your descriptors, you will be successful. I am sorry, but John Bishop captured that niche in the market many years ago and continues to do it better than almost anyone else in the city!
This lack of creativity also became even more apparent this weekend when I saw a post on City Food Magazine’s site showcasing the “new” line-up of dishes developed by our own Iron Chef Rob Feenie for Cactus Club. Hmmmmm, what could the man who is described as one of the best in the city come up with in his new role of “food architect”?
- Calamari
Sandwich - Butternut Squash Ravioli
- Sake-Miso Marinated Sablefish in Dashi Broth
As noted by Rhonda May who was at the launch “Most of the debut line up appears to be re-tweaked Feenie classics right off the old Lumiere and Feenie’s menus”. So much for the architect part of the job – Cactus Club could have popped down to Barbara Jo’s and picked up one of his old cookbooks and had one of the new apprentices come up with this!
With all of these new restaurants that have opened or are opening in the city, it would be nice to see some more creativity!
By the way, as anyone who reads my pieces regularly knows, I very rarely say anything negative as I am of the mindset that “if you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything at all”, but if Vancouver is to live up to its recent award of being one of the top 10 restaurant cities in the world, our top chefs can’t just re-tweak old recipes!
SPEND A GOURMET WEEKEND ON A YACHT IN THE GULF ISLANDS
It used to be that one had to choose between high-intensity and high thread count when booking a vacation. Now travellers don’t need to decide between the thrill of off-the-beaten-path exploration and opulent accommodation, service and dining. Merging adventure and luxury is a new travel and tour operator called Exposure, launching this spring in British Columbia.
Exposure caters to travellers who demand exquisite, authentic and meaningful experiences, which founders Nick Gudewill and Cory Matheson deliver with customized, all-inclusive, fully escorted tours. Starting this May and June, Exposure will be offering one of their featured trips, a culinary charter aboard a unique expedition yacht, the M.V. Pacific Yellowfin. Set in the breathtaking Gulf Islands, this 3-day/2-night cruise offers luxury stateroom accommodation, gourmet west coast cuisine (prepared by onboard executive chef Catherine Cafiti) matched with the region’s award-winning wines.
Travellers can expect very literally what their name implies – exposure. Their mandate is to put their guests in direct contact with unparalleled sightseeing and exposure to BC’s wilderness and wildlife. Open sea air and perfectly-prepared dining on a private yacht…Pass up this trip and your palate will never forgive you.
Trip Highlights
- Private seaplane transfer from Vancouver to the Gulf Island
- Anchor off a secluded beach, or turn around on a dime in the unique M.V. Pacific Yellowfin, a 115-ft yacht that can get you anywhere
- Dine on perfectly-prepared, fresh west coast cuisine paired with award-winning BC wines
- Explore seaside cliffs, white shell beaches and villages that are practically untouched by time and tourists
- Come face to face with sea life on the Yellowfin’s expedition tenders
- Optional activities also include: swimming, sea kayaking, hiking and biking routes, onshore excursions, and sportfishing
Dates & Pricing
- Trip #1: Friday, May 30 – Sunday, June 1
- Trip #2: Friday, June 6 – Sunday, June 8
- Trip #3: Friday, June 13 – Sunday, June 15
- Trip Length: 3 Days / 2 Nights
- Special Introductory Pricing per Person: $1,995 + 5% GST
If you are interested in signing up for this amazing weekend, call Nick or Cory at Exposure Travel (778-371-4845) to book your space, or email them at info@exposure.travel
AN EVENING WITH DAVID HAWKSWORTH – by Stefan Postuma
I have had the pleasure of dining at West a number of times over the last few years. Usually David Hawksworth was there, quietly but efficiently running the kitchen that produces so many amazing plates. David has moved on and will be opening ‘Hawksworth’, a restaurant in hotel Georgia that is currently under renovation.
As an avid foodie and amateur home cook, I am always interested in interacting with chefs. Imagine my excitement when I got an email from EBC informing me that David was coming to Granville Island for an evening of close up and personal cooking. I immediately hit the ‘reply’ button, securing a spot for what was sure to be a very interesting evening.
For those unfamiliar with EBC’s “Cooking with BC’s best” classes, these involve a chef, some great food and about 20 lucky people who get to sit, eat, drink and get up close and personal with the chef. As a guest you can observe the chef prepare and plate the food and ask lots of questions. This evening was no different and I was happy to see there was a 5 course menu waiting for us with wine pairings to boot.
The first course was a spiced coconut, lime and spot prawn soup. It reminded me of a cross between a Thai Tom Yum Gai and a classic bisque since David had roasted off the prawn shells to make the broth that was infused with lime leaves and lemon grass as well. The wine paired with this course was a Joie 2007 unoaked Chardonnay. This was a great combination, the spicy and citrus flavoured soup worked great with the crisp and refreshing wine.
Second we had a scallop Chevice, this is a Latin inspired dish where seafood is cooked by marinating it in citrus juice. The acid in the juice sets the proteins, having the same result as applying heat to them. The scallops were dressed with some mint and extra virgin olive oil and paired with a Tantalus 2006 Old Vines Riesling. This kind of food makes you ready for a summer of patio meals!
Next up was halibut, poached in butter, served with ramps, peas and wild mushrooms. David poached the halibut on the spot while his assistant sautéed the ramps and mushrooms. He also added some snails to the mix. This dish was delicious, paired with a Sumac Ridge 2006 white Meritage. I always knew Meritage as the red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot and was told by the very knowledgeable wine expert of Eric’s staff that a white Meritage is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.
This was definitely a spring menu with light dishes. The meat course was a leg of duck confit with pickled celeriac and a honey vanilla glaze. This was paired with a 2005 Sandhill Two, which is a blend of Bordeaux reds and is very similar to a red Meritage. Duck confit is one of my favourite things to eat and this one didn’t disappoint. For dessert we were treated to some roasted pineapple combined with a slice of fresh pineapple dressed in a liquorice crème anglaise. This was paired with a Hillside 2004 late harvest
The great thing about a dinner like this is that the chef is not an anonymous entity in the kitchen but is there, talking about the dishes, the ingredients and cooking techniques. Between courses we all got up and would stand around the cooking station while David chatted away. Lots of questions were asked, there seems to be a lot of interest in his new restaurant which opens in October of 2009. I hope he remembers to send us all the tickets to the opening party that we were promised J
You also get to know the other guests. I found out that the guy sitting across from me works at the same company for example. Most of them are foodies like me so we had plenty to talk about while eating the lovely food that was set before us.
Next up for me is Robert Belcham’s class in June. I can’t wait!
FORBIDDEN FRUIT WINERY PICNIC
Forbidden Fruit Winery in the stunning Similkameen Valley is hosting a picnic on Saturday May 3rd at their property to raise funds for Land Conservancy Projects in BC. If you have not been to this winery, pack your bags and head up to the Okanagan for the weekend. The winery is part of a large scale organic farm situated on the banks of the Similkameen River. The last time we stayed there, we had an owl sit on the roof and watch us in the hot tub, as moose wandered through the river.
The Similkameen Valley is also home to many more outstanding wineries including Orofino and Herder, both of which should be on your “to visit” list. The picnic will run from 11:30 to 4:00 and tickets are only $15 and include food, wine, and live music by “Cawston”. You can buy your tickets at Osoyoos Home Hardware, the Hilltop Esso or at the winery by calling (250) 499-2649.
Lots of other activities are also planned that weekend as part of the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival!
FANTASTIC DEAL – TOJO AT COAST!
This is one of the best deals I have seen come across my desk in a long time. Chef Hidekazu Tojo of the famed Tojo’s Restaurant will be cooking at Coast Restaurant, alongside Coast Executive Chef John Wolfe on Sunday May 18th.
Guests will enjoy a eight-course dinner served around Coast’s stunning community table. With limited seating and a price of only $100 (excluding tax, gratuity and beverage), be sure to book your seat quickly! This is less than it would cost you to go and sit at the sushi bar at Tojo’s!
To buy tickets call Coast’s Wayne Carson or Terry Hayashi at 604.685.5010.
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